Back Home
I am back home now after a long series of flights. I want to thank my friend Jim Carroll who upgraded me to business class for my flight from Santiago to Toronto. It was oh so nice and a great restful way to return home. Jim is a great keynote speaker and you can check him out at www.jimcarroll.com.

After returning to Union Glacier base camp we waited for a day for our flight back to Punta Arenas on December 3. Union Glacier base camp is a pretty interesting place to spend some time. Both the staff and the visiting explorers offer a very interesting collection of individuals. This is a place where drive, over achieving, motivation, team work and leadership are the norm. The stories and experiences are fantastic and humbling. There are so many adventurous people out there. 

Once back in Punta Arenas I set about the daunting task of changing my scheduled flight so that I could get home early. Unfortunately most air carriers do not make this an easy task. After many phone calls and hours spent on the web it was determined that the easiest and cheapest thing for me to do was just to abandon my already paid for flights and book new tickets. The change fees and price adjustment made it impossible to use my originally booked ticked. However, this is a pretty normal part of these expeditions and one must accept the fact that additional money must often be spent to get back home. Maybe I should learn and just book a one-way ticket next time. 

The flights home went smoothly and I arrived at the Toronto airport at 6:10am to be greeted by my family. It is always great to be back in Canada and traveling around the world has taught me how fortunate we are to be Canadian. It is also always amazing to see my family again. Even thought this was not one of my longer trips, I always miss them. 

Integrating back into “normal” life is usually pretty easy; mostly because there is no real transition period at all. Life picks up right where it left off, but with a big pile of “to do’s” that have accumulated over the last month. As the saying goes “out of the frying pan and into the fire”. 

I will, over the next week or so, fill in the gaps of my blog. I was not able to blog every day as you know and some crucial times, such as the summit of Vinson, were missed. 

I am now the 15^th Canadian to have climbed the 7 summits; the highest peak on each of the seven continents. This all started in 1999 with my ascent of Aconcagua in Argentina. At this point I did not really have a plan to climb the seven summits, but was more focused on Everest. As I continued to climb to get experience for Everest I climbed several more of the seven summits and once I made it to the top of Everest it seemed kind of silly not to keep going and finish them off. 

While I would not put myself in the Olympic athlete category, climbing the seven summits is, if I may say so, a pretty fantastic achievement. Less than 300 people worldwide have stood on the top of these same mountains. Obviously fitness is a huge part of success in this endeavour, but once this “entry ticked” has been paid there are other factors that will ultimately determine one's success. 

Without goal setting, personal drive, sacrifice, emotional intelligence, teamwork and leadership none of this would be possible. I was speaking with one of the owners of ALE (the company that provides the logistics for Vinson climbs and South Pole expeditions) and he was talking about the countless people who have failed to achieve their Antarctic goals. Sometimes it is lack of fitness or injury that stops an individual, but more often than not it is a breakdown of leadership, teamwork or personal drive. 

The hardships endured on these extended expeditions are tremendous and it is difficult for most people to handle the pressure. This is where teamwork, leadership and personal strength come into play. Without these factors, success will not be possible.

I will need to think about what climbing the seven summits has meant to me and what I have taken from this experience, but my initial thoughts fall to how rich this experience has been for me in so many ways. I have traveled to far-flung and amazing places; parts of the planet that most people will never see. I have met great friends and untold numbers of extremely interesting people. I have pushed myself, mentally and physically, to the breaking point and returned unscathed. I have learned so much about myself and human dynamics that I could write a book (I am actually writing a book that is 80% complete and should be out soon I hope). The expedition world is such a rich environment to learn about group dynamics, team development, team work, change management, conflict management, goal setting, leadership, motivation and so many other things that play an immensely important part in our personal and professional lives. 

As most of you know I am a corporate leadership and team trainer by profession and these experiences have allowed me and my team to create very successful training programs for large and small, public and private corporations. I believe our programs are much richer from my experiences. My EMBA students have told me how much this approach to training has helped them to become better leaders and team members. 

As a keynote speaker I am blessed to be able to tell my stories to others and to share my learnings and insights with them. I was in Vancouver just before I departed to for Antarctica giving a keynote and leading a workshop to a financial organization and received a great compliment from the President. She told me that my combination of storytelling (making it interesting) and workshop application (making it real) was by far the best that they had ever experienced. They had recently brought in an Olympic athlete as a motivational speaker and I was told that while this person was extremely nice and had an interesting story, it did not have the real world application and depth that I was able to provide. 

Now I am not usually much of a self-promoter as that is not really my style, I do truly believe that what we have to offer as a company and what I offer as a speaker can provide great value to individuals and organizations alike. I feel blessed to have found this niche within which to live and I look forward to working with and helping others for a long time to come. 

Adult Gummie Vitamins, Sherpa Adventure Gear and Ostrom Outdoors, I have mentioned them before, but will do so once again because these are companies and products that I truly believe in and people who have always been there for me. 

Fitness and nutrition are a big part of my life and I know I am not always the best eater. Adult Essentials Gummy Vitamins www.adultgummies.com help me to stay healthy and to get the vitamins my body requires to perform at my best. Beyond their nutritional value, they provide a valuable mental boost every morning on an expedition with their burst of yummy flavour and they do not freeze solid like so much of our food at 30 below. Give them a try if you have not already. 

Sherpa Adventure Gear www.sherpaadventuregear.com is a great outdoor and lifestyle clothing company. Not only do they have great products, but they come from real Sherpa roots and support the Sherpa people of Nepal. I have worn Sherpa clothing for the last few years on all my expeditions and I have always been warm and dry. I have never suffered a clothing failure and would recommend Sherpa Adventure Gear for wearing around town and outdoor adventure alike. 

Bill Ostrom from Ostrom Outdoors has designed and built me fantastic backpacks over the years. An Ostrom pack has been with me on every one of my seven summits and countless other climbs and adventures as well. Check out www.ostromoutdoors.com if you are looking for a reliable pack for your next adventure. 

So what is my next challenge you may ask? I am not totally sure at this point. The North and South Poles have always been of interest to me and to complete the Adventure Grand Slam (the seven summits plus the North and South Pole) would be an amazing feat. I have also recently had a calling to kite ski across Greenland, so maybe I will learn to kite this winter. There are countless Himalayan peaks I would love to climb and other mountains and adventures all around the world. Sailing around the world has always excited me and terrified me at the same time and good friend, who is a sailor, has often suggested we give that a try. For the next few months however, I think I will just enjoy being home with my family and soaking up the Ontario alpine ski season.

I am truly thankful for all that I have.

Summit Life! Scott.

Back at Union Glacier

We are now back at Union Glacier base camp. We arrived just in time for lunch yesterday. After a restful night at the base of Mt. Charles we packed up and started the ski back to Union Glacier base camp.

The initial part of the ski presented some tricky ground as the Sanchez, Union, and Driscoll glaciers collide. The ground was quite mixed up with ice waves and a lot of rock debris from Mt. Charles. Once past this, the skiing was slightly up hill but very gentle. It took us 2.5 hours to ski back. It was nice to see the tents of camp, but sad to see the end of the wilderness for this trip.

The ice marathon started on December 1^st with 32 people running the marathon. The fastest time was 3:47 (male) and 4:26 (female) beyond that times ranged up to 8:45. Two Canadians ran in the race. December 2^nd was the 100km run and six people set out for that. The fastest time was 14 hours and change, and some runners took close to 24 hours to complete it. I could hear runners finishing at all hours of the night as I slept in my tent at the side of the finish line. Temperatures ranged from -20° to -30°c for the run.

One runner set out to run 100 miles and completed his run in just over 24 hours. It is pretty amazing to see the runners accomplish this feat. They are all limping around Union Glacier today with sore muscles and blistered feet.One runner set a new world record for the fastest time to run a marathon on each of the seven continents; 25 days, 18 hours and 10 minutes. This beat the old record by four days.

Also of note was the fuel train that left here last night. As the twin otter planes have a limited flight range, they need to land and re-fuel for longer flights. A Piston Bully (snow cat) was hooked to 4 giant sleds for the 300mile/500km journey to The Fields re-fuel base. Four drivers and mechanics were ready for this two-week journey. The trip would take them through a wide variety of ground from gentle slopes to steep hills, from deep snow to ice and across crevasse filled glaciers. The train consisted of a utility and supply sled, a living pod, a sled of 150 forty-five gallon drums of aviation fuel, and a huge shipping container that will be used as a storage shed. They set off at 1am to cheers and wishes of good weather.

Today will be spent waiting for the plane to take us back to Punta Arenas. As of now, flights are grounded due to low clouds, but we hope this will change later in the day.

Hopefully my next blog will come from the hotel in Punta Arenas after a shower and a shave.

Please check out Adult Essentials Gummy Vitamins, Sherpa Adventure Gear and Ostrom Outdoors as they all played a part in the success of this trip.

What is your next challenge?

Summit life! Scott.

Mount Charles
Today has been a day of contrasts. From extreme cold and wind to complete stillness and heat. From hyperactivity to complete lack of movement.

The wind raged all night, but I slept through most of it. From 5:30am on I laid in my sleeping bag and listened to the freight train roar and watched the tent shake violently and to try to rip free of our anchors. Today was our day to climb Mt Charles. We waited for the wind to abate, but it was not happening so at 11:00 we decided to head out regardless. With jackets zipped up, goggles on, crampons on, and ice axes in hand we turned into the wind and started up.

The initial part of the climb was up a 35 degree snow ramp. The wind was fierce and made the otherwise easy climb about 30-40% more difficult. It did not take too long for us to reach the col where the wind intensified. It was blowing a steady 70-80kph with gusts over 100.

The ridge to the summit alternated from rock to snow and from gentle to steep. All along the wind tried to push us down. Close to the top we roped up as the drops on either side became more severe. We reached the top as a team and celebrated. We were treated to spectacular 360° views of mountains and glaciers for as far as the eye could see. We could even see the marathon track laid out on the ice as a snow cat slowly moved along grooming the trail. We took some photos but did not remain on the top for too long. The wind and the cold quickly drove us down.

With the rope floating freely in the wind we started down. The way down was much easier with gravity working with us and the wind at our backs. The final slope to the tents was beautiful as we looked out across the frozen sea of ice that is our temporary home.

Once back at camp we had lunch and laid down to rest. When I woke the wind had completely died and the sun has warmed our tent to an almost unbearable heat. We are only eight km from union Glacier base camp but have decided to stay on the ice one more night. It will be all too soon that we re-enter the chaos of civilization and we want to savour our final hours of peace and solitude on the ice of Antarctica.

Summit life! Scott.

Yesterday we left Union Glacier base camp and started to ski across the Union Glacier. Our plan was to ski to the mountains in the distance and do some climbing. However after four hours and 15km we did not seem to be getting any closer. We set up camp in the middle of this huge glacier with nothing but space and mountains surrounding us. The silence was absolute and we slept until 9:30 the next morning. I think this was the best sleep we have all had since we landed in Antarctica.

Today we changed objectives and made a left turn towards a different set of peaks. After four hours of skiing we are finally at the base of a beautiful unclimbed peak we have named Sharks `Tooth because that is what it looks like. We have set up camp and will get an early start tomorrow and try to climb at least two peaks.

We are all doing well. My Adult Essentials Gummy vitamins taste good every morning (they have not frozen yet). My Sherpa clothing is keeping we very warm, and my Ostrom pack is helping me to carry it all.

We will stay out here for a few more days and then start to make our way back to base camp. It will be a long ski back.

They are getting ready for the Antarctica marathon in a few days. Over forty runners are flying in for the event. The course is set on the glacier and we skied across it on our way to the mountains.

We saw some photos from the emperor penguin expedition and it was beyond belief. One of the guides we know said it was a life changing experience for him. We will not make it to the penguins however. They charge $15k to start the plane and $10k per flying hour. The penguins are about four hours away and out of our budget.

This is an amazing place to be and I feel very fortunate to be here.

Thinking of you all.

Summit life! Scott.

Back in Contact (from Scott)
We are back at Union Glacier now. We have been experiencing email problems so I have not been able to send a blog until now. On Nov 21 we moved from base camp to low camp. It was a beautiful but long ski through a magnificent valley of 9km. We set up camp and spent the night.

On Nov 22 we moved up to high camp in a single carry. Our packs were heavy but this would save us time and overall effort. The headwall was 1200m of fixed line and while not technically difficult it was very tiring and took us around three hours to climb. We then ascended for another 90 minutes to high camp. We were quite tired when we got there. We set up camp and prepared for a summit push in the morning. 

On Nov 23 we set out for the summit at 9:30am. The route follows a gentle but exhausting valley for seven km. The sky was clear with a slight wind. Temperature was around minus 25. After six hours we made it to the summit ridge. The wind picked up and the temperature dropped to around minus 45 with the wind chill. The summit ridge was amazing, with a razor sharp top and steep drops on both sides. We made it to the summit at 4:30. It was amazing but difficult to enjoy with the cold and the wind. After a couple of bad summit photos all three of our cameras froze. We spent about 20 min on top.

The journey down was easy but tiring and took us around three hours. We made it back to camp had dinner and slept. On the 24th we made the long journey back to base camp. It was a fast, fantastic, and challenging climb. After a rest day we did some great skiing at base camp and then flew back to Union Glacier late last night. We will pack and head back into the mountains today to explore areas the have never seen footsteps. We are all having fun and enjoying our time in Antarctica. I will send more detailed daily journals when I have access to wifi.

Summit life! Scott.

Reflecting on Vinson

A post by Ryan Waters, Mountain Professionals

"A special climb of a beautiful mountain in one of the most remote spots in the world. It has been a pleasure for us to be here in the highest mountain range of Antarctica.

Of special note on this climb; Scott Kress has completed his Seven Summits, finishing successful climbs of the highest mountain on each continent. He is just the 15th Canadian to do so.

Ron Sanga has just Australia now left before completing the Seven Summits! Nice work guys.

Also of note; Ryan Waters has now led expeditions to all, and most cases many times, of the Seven Summits. So a fun time for celebration and now we have built in time to explore remote areas on our skis and visit peaks that have had few or no visitors ever."

Communication from one of the most remote areas of the Earth is sometimes sketchy. We haven't heard from Scott, but here is an update from his teammate Ryan Waters: 

23 Nov, 11 - 20:01     
78.4941S,85.7390W
"Hello from high camp! A long day of awesome climbing up the headwall and a cool route up the col to high camp. We just had a big dinner of Real Turmat meals and a big hot drink. We can see forever up here. Looking back to the West we see the Nimitz Glacier sprawling below with small peaks poking out from a thin cloud layer.

We are going for the summit tomorrow. Planning to leave around 9 am when the sun is on the route. It is a long day up 3600 feet to the summit so we must hit the sack." (Ryan Waters, Mountain Professionals)

Exploring Punta Arenas ...

Another day in Punta Arenas is another day closer to flying to Antarctica. The Norwegian South Pole team was put on notice to be ready for a call to the Airport Friday morning between 6am and 9am. This means we are next and will most likely fly Saturday morning and then hopefully immediately to Vinson with no delay.

Today was cool, grey and windy, but what else is new in Punta Arenas. There was not a lot to do today. I sat around in the hotel and worked on my book for a while. Yes, I am working on a book and have been doing so for around three years. I think writing a book is an even bigger mountain to climb than Everest.

Around 11:30 I decided to go for a run. I figured that perhaps I should try to maintain some fitness while I am here, plus it would be a good way to explore the city. I put on my trail shoes, my smelly socks, my fancy new Lu Lu Lemon shorts that I got for my birthday before I left, my Sherpa shirt, by running hat and my iPod and I was off. I ran down the main street to the water and turned right. The smell of ocean was strong in my nostrils as I sucked in air.

The waterfront is similar to the waterfront of most port cities. There is a combination of industrial, manufacturing, shipping, residential and park lands. One great feature is a dedicated bike path and a separate walking/running path so that there is no mix of cars, people, and bikes. I ran past the Dreams Hotel and Casino. This is where the cruise ships come in and is the finest, and most expensive, accommodation in the city. After that I ran past the shipping docks that were full of containers, forklifts, cranes and for some reason thousands of bundles of rusted wire. Past the shipping docks it turned residential with nice, but not huge homes.

All the nicer homes in the city have tall concrete walls with spikes on top surrounding them and a large gate across the driveway. ADT security signs are everywhere and every store, even the grocery store, has security guards with bullet-proof vests. This makes me think that the city has a high crime rate, but I have seen no evidence of this and feel totally safe. The people I meet on the street are friendly, not overly so, but not distant at all.

Past the residential area the land opened up with a few large ocean-side parks. They are not quite as fancy and lush as the parks we might have back home, but they are nice and attract the locals for walking and beach exploring. The water is cold so there is no swimming, but there are plenty of shells to gather and a lot of beach glass as well.

One park was an exercise park and they have all these metal machines for people to use. I sat on and tried out all of the apparatus as I went by; partly out of curiosity and party because it was a good excuse to stop running for a few minutes. One machine was like an elliptical, and one was like a leg press, another was similar to a shoulder press. Basically it was every exercise contained on a Nautilus machine and set into a stand-alone machine. There were even a few machines that mimicked the exercise gimmicks advertised on late night TV. I half expected Susanne Somers to be there running fitness classes.

Moving on I passed another shipping yard and came to what appeared to be a graveyard for old ships. These were not little ships, but huge tankers and cargo ships. Five or six of them were run aground and looked like they had been there for quite some time. One huge cargo ship was easily 300-feet long and presented a massive hole in its side. Another was even longer and had four tall masts that once upon a time would have held sails. All the ships were extremely rusty and had been stripped of everything of value and that could be re-used on other ships.

As I walked the beach looking at the ships I began to notice all the shells, the pretty rocks, and the beach glass passing by my feet. I walked up and down the beach for a while collecting the nicest specimens and enjoying the view of the ocean. Eventually it was time to start my return run.

On the way back I picked up a friend to run with me. She was beautiful, in great shape, very friendly, and had gorgeous blond hair. She was also a dog. Punta Arenas has over 11,000 wild dogs and one had chosen to spend some time with me. She ran right beside me like we had been doing it for years. Every minute or so she would look up to make sure I was still there and that she was right at my side. It was fun to run with a partner for a while, but she was not much of a conversationalist.

Eventually I turned up away from the water and my partner decided not to join me on this last leg of my run. I ran up the second main street which moves towards the city centre square at a slight upwards slope. Just like the other main street this one has two lanes of traffic separated by a large boulevard in the middle. This boulevard is full of walking paths, sculpted trees, monuments, statues and busts of famous people. This presents a contrast in times as this was obviously once a rich, proud and special place, but today much of it is in disrepair, and graffiti covers many of the monuments.

Close to the top of the hill I turned right and followed yet another once beautiful boulevard back towards the direction of my hotel. Just over an hour later I returned to my hotel. Although I was not overly excited about going for a run when I first set out, I am glad that I did it. I saw parts of the city that I would not have seen otherwise, and I did feel good from the exercise as well.

The rest of the day was relatively uneventful. Ron, Ryan , one of Ryan’s friends Eric (he is guiding the Emperor Penguin trips in Antarctica and has skied to the North and South Poles as well as climbed Everest – there are a lot of over achievers down here) and I went for a drink at the Shackelton bar which is in a famous hotel used by Shackelton and his team when planning his two South Pole Expeditions. After that we went back to the pizza jazz bar where we had dinner the other night.

After dinner Ron and I explored the main square and I took some photos of the architecture and the craft sellers. We also got a glimpse into the youth culture as they hung out on their BMX bikes and skate boards in the square. One interesting fact about life in Punta Arenas is that a very large percentage of the population, kids included, smoke. There are no smoking by-laws and the restaurants are thick with smoke. It is difficult for a non-smoker like me to adjust to. I have not had to deal with smoke while I ate dinner for a very long time (at least not in North America anyway).

We then wandered slowly back to our hotel and retired for the night. All in all not a bad day. Nothing that exciting, but still good. Every day is a good day.

Summit Life! Scott Out.

Puntas Arenas -November 14
At 6am I was just starting to stir from a pretty good night’s sleep when I heard the jiggling of a key in a door. At first I thought it was in a dream, then I realized it was not a dream. I thought it must be coming from one of the other rooms, but then realized it was too loud and it must be my room. I was about to get an unexpected visitor. Suddenly the door swung open and in walked Ron. I was not expecting him until 8:30 or later, but I guess his flights had gone smoothly and he got into Punta Arenas earlier than expected.

I have not seen Ron since Everest in 2008 and it was good to see him. We chatted for about an hour catching up until the people in the next room started to pound on the wall. Apparently the walls are paper thin and they were not real excited to listen to us chat at 6am. I suggested to Ron that perhaps he should lie down and get some rest and he responded that he was too wound up to sleep. Five minutes later he was out like a light.

I however, could not fall back asleep and read for a while and wrote my blog. I then made my way downstairs for breakfast. Our hotel is $87 a night and includes breakfast. It is not the fanciest or cleanest of places, but it does the job.

Breakfast was a selection of eggs, toast, cereal, yogurt, fruit, and crepes. Just as I sat down Ryan walked in and joined me. We ate and chatted for a while and then Ron came down to join us after a 2 hour nap.

We walked over to Ryan’s hotel to look at the maps and to discuss packing logistics and safety protocol on the mountain. At 11:00 Ryan went to a meeting at ALE (Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions). They will provide out flight and all the logistics for our trip.

We met Ryan for lunch at Lomito’s and reviewed the locations of the safety stashes of equipment at the various camps. We also went through the Antarctica environmental police.

Antarctica is a very clean place and the managing countries have imposed strict policies to keep it that way. Everything that goes in also comes out. All trash must be removed and severe fines are handed out if anyone is caught ditching garbage. Each person is supplied with three waste bags for solid human waste. All urine and grey water is contained to specific deposit locations at the various camps. This is the only place it is allowed. If you have to go pee as you are climbing the route you are required to use your pee bottle and dump it at the specified location at the camp. Ryan said that at the South Pole even urine is removed once it is frozen.

After lunch, Ron and I spent some time packing and then Ryan came over with the ski skins which we fitted to our skis. These will be used to give us traction as we pull our sleds and for skiing up hill. As I was putting the skins on my skis I realized that I had not removed the coating of wax I had put on before I left home. I tuned and waxed 10 pair of skis before I left and in all the business I obviously missed this final important stage with my expedition skis. So I took out my Air Canada member card and proceeded to scrape all the wax off. Although this was not the perfect tool for the job it worked just fine.

After some packing time Ron and I wandered around town for a while checking out the tourist shops and looking for post cards. Punta Arenas has many of the old world Spanish features like the ornate Spanish colonial buildings and the large park areas and the main square in the middle of town. The town seems to be fairly prosperous, but there is a big gap between the ‘haves’ and the ‘have-nots’. There are a few obviously poor street people, but most seem to be doing ok. There are, however, quite a few very large homes and many BMW’s and Mercedes Benz’s driving the streets.

Stray, but friendly, dogs roam the streets in small packs and play in the parks. The temperature was 11c most of the day and we had off and on rain. The wind seems to be pretty constant with the only real change being how strong it is blowing.

Dinner at 7:30 was at La Luna and it was quite good. La Luna is a step up from Lomito’s in quality and price. Every patron was a tourist and most seemed to be of the wealthier kind. There is quite a mix of people in town from climbers, and skiers, and hikers, and bird watchers and cruise liners. Ryan and I had steak and fries and Ron had seafood pasta. It was all quite good, but not in our price bracket for every meal. We will hunt for a pizza joint for tomorrow’s dinner I think.

I am back in the hotel now and about to go off to bed. Tomorrow morning we go to a meeting at ALE. Everyone who is waiting to fly out is required to go to this meeting to review baggage logistics, flight logistics, safety regulations, and environmental regulations.

Several groups have been waiting for 10-14 days to fly out as all flights have been cancelled due to bad weather in Antarctica. There appears to be a clear spell moving in and we hope to fly out Thursday or Friday of this week. That will put us 1-2 days behind, but at least we are not 2 weeks behind like some of the south pole people currently are.

Summit Life! Scott out.

Expedition members Ryan Waters, Ron Senga, Scott Kress

Punta Arenas
I am now in Punta Arenas; the bottom of South America and the jumping off point for Antarctica. I am tired and somewhat dazed after a long journey here.

Leaving home was emotional as always. Going away for a month is hard on everyone. Amy and Colin were sad at the airport, but were strong. Saying good bye to Amy, Colin and Susan is always difficult, but as a family this is not the first time so that makes it a little easier I guess. Knowing that this is a significant trip, the last of my 7 summits, also makes it exciting and perhaps a little easier on the kids. For Susan my trips always add much to her plate, but she is very supportive and encouraging.

My flight from Toronto to Santiago left one hour late. I have no idea why, and no one seemed too concerned about it. The flight was uneventful and the movie/tv selections were exactly the same as what I had the previous week on my flight to and from Vancouver. The selection was poor then and did not seem any better now. As I rarely see movies I tend not to sleep on planes as this is my opportunity to catch up on pop culture. However, on this flight, thanks to the poor selection, I actually slept quite a bit.

I arrived in Santiago and the chaos began. Finding my way through the airport was not too bad but I got into a huge line at immigration and everything was moving slowly. There were only two agents on duty and hundreds of passengers. As I was nearing the front of the line I heard some people talking about an entry fee and asked what this was about. So, I got into a different huge line to pay $132 before I could get back into the first line. I was not the only person to make this error as it was not very clear. It appeared that I had 50 minutes until my flight to Punta Arenas and at least three hours of lines. My stress level went up a notch. I am not usually one to cut lines, but this day would be different. I begged my way to the front of the entry fee line and most people were accommodating. I got a few dirty looks, but nothing too serious. Then I had to do the same in the immigration line.

Watching the immigration agent check his email on his iPhone between every person was stressful and a little infuriating, but I learned a long time ago not to pressure immigration. They can, and have, made my life miserable in the past and I had no time for an extended conversation with the authorities at this point.

Getting into the country had been stressful, but not difficult. Now I raced to retrieve my bags. Even though the Air Canada agent in Toronto had assured me my bags would go direct to Punta Arenas I had been told by others that this never happens. Sure enough, my bags were waiting for me on the carousel (having rotate several hundred times, I’m sure).

Throwing my bags onto a luggage cart I rushed to the elevator to get to the third floor departure level. After finding my way to the right line, I had to once again get out of the line and go to the self-serve ticket machine to get my boarding pass.

Back in line now with my boarding pass I had 20 minutes until take-off. I thought I was in the clear and then I was informed that because my bag was 5kg overweight I had to go and get in a different line to pay 18,0000 pesos for the extra weight. I argued that I was going to miss my flight, but they were unconcerned.

Sprinting across the terminal I ground to a halt in the next line. Nobody here seems to have any sense of urgency and the process of paying for my extra weight was deadly slow and extremely stressful. I had no idea how much 18,000 pesos was, but thrust my Visa at the woman behind the counter. She spoke no English and I speak virtually no Spanish so there was little talking. Apparently I showed no stress on my face, or perhaps she just did not care to notice, as she went tediously about her job.

Fees paid, I began to run for gate 32. At least it was not too far. Out of breath and with sweat on my forehead, I was the last person to board the bus that would take us to the plane.

I was not even 100% sure I was on the right plane as no one checked my ticket upon boarding, but when I saw Ryan seated a few rows back I was greatly relieved. I sank down into my seat and took in a deep breath. I had made it through Santiago.

Seeing Santiago from the air as we departed presents an interesting mix of farms, industrial buildings, and residential neighbourhoods all clustered together. There seemed to be no real pattern to it and no separation in land use. Splintering all of this up were dozens of long fingers of mountain that jutted into the land and broke up the settlement patterns.

The in-flight movie on the 2:50 minute flight to Punta Arenas was Captain America. Not really my cup of tea, but I watched it anyway. Looking out the window as we flew over the mountains was a beautiful site. I began to relax and enjoy the experience.

As we began our descent into Punta Arenas the landscape became lunar in appearance. The ground is windswept and barren with very little evidence of human habitation except for the cluster of development around the water’s edge that is Punta Arenas.

Navigating the Punta Arenas airport was relatively easy as it is quite small. Ryan and I found a small taxi van and tossed in all our bags. The ride to town was about 25 minutes and Ryan and I spent some time catching up as we had not seen one another since our climb in Russia in the summer of 2010.

Ron was not yet with us as his flight out of Dallas had been cancelled when a bird went through the engine of the plane.

We arrived at our hotel, the Condor de Plata, and unloaded our bags from the taxi. Ryan speaks Spanish and began the check in process. As we were being escorted up the stair to our rooms, I had the feeling that we were one room short and mentioned this to Ryan. When he asked for clarification this was confirmed. Apparently the reservations had been messed up and there was only one room for the three of us (Ron and I were going to share one room and Ryan would be in the other).

This reminded me of an old Seinfeld episode when Jerry and Elaine arrive at the car rental desk to learn that that there were no cars. Yes, he had a reservation, but that did not mean that there would necessarily be a car.

We too had reservations and the emails to prove it, but that did not mean there was a room. As the Spanish became more heated it was clear the hotel was taking no responsibility and there were no rooms.

Ryan and I headed out to book him into another hotel. Ron (when he arrived) and I would stay in the Condor and Ryan would stay in a different hotel about a five minute walk down the street. Not ideal, but it is rare on these trips that everything goes as planned and you must learn to roll with it.

Once settled into our separate hotels we went out for dinner at Lomitos which is a very popular hamburger restaurant. The cheese burgers were excellent and the beer was cold and thus ended a long day-and-a-half of travel.

At 10:00 I made my way to my room and quickly fell asleep to the sound of dogs barking and road traffic.

It is good to be on expedition once again.

Scott.